Today’s destination was Santo Domingo de la Calzada, what a cracker of a name!

Off into the reddy hills encircling Nájera, climbing gently and then reaching farmland swiftly under a grey-flecked sky. Turning back, the only sign of the town behind was a large cross atop the hills. Gentle walking thru rolling landscapes leading into the town of Azofra, and then back into more quite lovely fields and vineyards.

The grey skies darkened and eventually brought rain, tho never very heavy. I somehow took a wrong turn on the outskirts of the next town, Cirueña, and instead trudged unnecessarily along mildly monotonous concrete footways in its odd little golf-centred suburb, Cirueñela, and only realised when rejoining the real Camino at the edge of town. Ah well.

Back to more rolling fields, with a sense of being higher up now – elevation somewhere around or above 600m? – and the highlight of the day. A cool and gentle breeze carried with it the scent of the spring growth, highlighted by the day’s rain. Climbing up a final wee hill, and cresting to see Santo Domingo unfurling on the plain ahead.

The city itself is another site of great interest, with a cathedral, separate belltower and old convent all worthy of a visit. First, a hearty pilgrims’ menu served as combined lunch and dinner! Then off to see the sights, while staying dry and being grateful for the warm beds awaiting back in the albergue, which is set across three floors and itself a small joy.

Final and delightful note – there is an actual rooster living in a special house inside the cathedral, opposite and above the tomb of Santo Domingo / Saint Dominic. There’s also a henhouse at the albergue. Both relate to a local legend that’s mildly wild in the best kind of way, and I won’t attempt to poorly paraphrase it here.

Stats for today:

• 20.9km
• 377m ascent
• 234m descent

• 8 hens approx. living at the albergue