Leaving Burgos, the typical trudge to make it out of the suburbs and then before too long back into greenery. The odd motorway bridge and tunnel, but then eventually fields, farms and villages again. Classic Camino, if you will.

Two small towns en route today, squished together so close you could almost run a steel-can-and-string telephone system between ’em. Stopped for snack and coffee in town numero uno, Tardajos, and then received a blessing and a necklace of St Mary from a nun in town numero dos, Rabe de las Calzadas.

And then, excitingly, forwards and upwards and onto the vast expanse of the Meseta Central, an enormous plateau (table-land) across the interior of the Iberian Peninsula. This section of Camino is about a week long and has a mixed reputation, with some pilgrims skipping it from their playlist entirely. It’s relatively high elevation, rural and isolated, meaning little shade and few water refills. On the upside, this also means we won’t be walking near any major roads for several days.

The first experience of the Meseta was quietly glorious. An expanse of green and brown rolling away under a grey-blue sky, endlessly it seemed. The wind did fairly whip about us as we crossed, and I was glad of my new gloves.

As this was only a short day, it was hardly any time at all before today’s home rolled into view below a crest in the hill – Hornillos del Camino. Beautiful little town set like a gem amidst the landscape.

Time enough remained to rest, to relax, to gently explore and for a fantastic communal dinner with our albergue. And for some time patting the albergue cat while hanging out laundry in the garden. Cold but sunny thru the afternoon made for a lot of happy pilgrims.

Finally, a very cool and random rock bar down the Calle Mayor / Main Street served as a hangout for most of us for a while, until feet were demanding to be let to lie flat for the night.

Tomorrow – the Meseta continues…

Stats for today:

• 20.9km
• 161m ascent
• 210 descent
• 1,200 years since Hornillos was first documented