How long is the Camino Francés? – surprisingly difficult to find a precise answer, and values range from 760 to 800km. Whatever the total, the town of Sahagún has declared itself the halfway point. And today we passed thru, so we’re now into the second half of this adventure!

Another amazing sunrise to start the walk, leading into another clear blue sky that’s lasted all day long, and this time paired with a light, cool breeze in the afternoon. Magic.

A few small towns en route, first the impeccably-named Teradillos de los Templarios, with a connection to the Knights Templar, who I believe were a medieval boy band in the vein of Backstreet Boys or Nsync. Might be worth a Wikipedia check, though.

Coming across fields towards this town, the church of St Peter was lit from within, and with the waning moon still setting in the early dawn sky… very moving.

Onwards alongside roads and thru Moratinos and San Nicolas del Real Camino, then striking out across more incredible countryside as the day warmed up even more.

Finally, arriving at Bercianos del Real Camino, sneaking into the local tienda / shop just before they closed at 2pm for siesta / nap time, for a 5pm re-opening (this is entirely real and a unique feature of life in Spain).

Incredibly lucky to be in another fantastic albergue tonight. This one is a donativo, run by volunteers, where each pilgrim pays whatever they can. Dinner and breakfast are included. This one is an old two-storey house, maybe a few hundred years old? Walls made of straw packed with mud, dark wooden beams visible… very special. And more wonderful hospitaleros / wardens, clearly doing this all for love of the Camino and its people.

On that happy note, I’ll sleep well tonight after hours of walking under the clear sunlight and sharing a community meal with thirty-plus other pilgrims.

Stats for today:

• 26.0km
• 217m ascent
• 233m descent
• One-half of the Camino Francés walked!