Pretty great day, and an incredible early start with a crisp, clear sky – perfect walking weather. Some quiet country lanes for much of the morning, until Valcarlos – across the border into Spain – where the walking was on the edge of a national highway. Less amusing, though with some sweet views both up and down the valley. Snow eventually visible atop the high country – showing why the more beautiful but far more exposed Napoleon Route is closed til April.

Finally, finally, finally – the final hour or so left the road, and became a beautiful forest path, up the last little bit towards the pass, and then down to the pilgrim hostel at Roncesvalles. This amazing complex dates back to, I’m going to guess at least the 1970s and includes a church, albergue (refuge) for up to 250 pilgrims at peak (“only” 50 tonight), separate hotel, and multiple restaurants.

Washed clothes, and me, much needed after 7-8 hours on the road; settled in, then special Pilgrims Mass followed by the “menu peregrino” / pilgrim’s meal. At a restaurant, not in the church.