Pretty great day, and an incredible early start with a crisp, clear sky – perfect walking weather. Some quiet country lanes for much of the morning, until Valcarlos – across the border into Spain – where the walking was on the edge of a national highway. Less amusing, though with some sweet views both up and down the valley. Snow eventually visible atop the high country – showing why the more beautiful but far more exposed Napoleon Route is closed til April.

Finally, finally, finally – the final hour or so left the road, and became a beautiful forest path, up the last little bit towards the pass, and then down to the pilgrim hostel at Roncesvalles. This amazing complex dates back to, I’m going to guess at least the 1970s and includes a church, albergue (refuge) for up to 250 pilgrims at peak (“only” 50 tonight), separate hotel, and multiple restaurants.

Upon arrival there was an efficient and friendly process led by the excellent hospitalleros (wardens), their title dating back to when these facilities were actually hospitals for pilgrims. These red-jacketed stars stamped passports, showed us each around, and even manned the laundry room. (Sadly due to necessity – apparently when left to our own devices, pilgrims have been known to pick the 2-hour wash cycle, and there are only two or three washers!)

After washing my clothes, and myself, much needed after 7-8 hours on the road; settled in, then special Pilgrims Mass, followed by the “menu peregrino” / pilgrim’s meal at a local restaurant. First course soup, paella and bread; second course chips and a whole trout; and an icecream. Really nice people at my table – hailing from Korea, Argentina and Australia – and spoke to others back at the dormitory, from Germany, and more people from Australia.

Stats for the day

• 26.8km
• 1,189m ascent
• 419m descent
• 14 cashews for lunch