Gregorian chants woke the dormitory at 6am – piped, not live, but unique either way. Ready, dressed, breakfasted and out the door by the union-mandated 8am start time.

A vastly calmer, greener and more beautiful day unfolded in front of us. Highways and mountain passes behind, the trail was nearly all forest paths, and again under an endlessly blue sky. Frost for the first few hours, and crisp mountain air.

A shorter day, too, at maybe three-quarters the length of the day before. The coffee cart atop a random hill was a particular highlight, and had more great conversations with people from all parts of the world both while walking and at meals.

Municipal albergue tonight – very quiet, which fits for the low season. And pilgrim’s meal at a local (perhaps the only?) restaurant, which seemed to double as a community hub. Great vibes.

Happy to be here Camino-ing in Spain, happier still that the first and hardest day is already in the rear-view, and looking forward to Pamplona tomorrow!

Stats for the day:

• 20.1km
• 429m ascent
• 851m descent
• 2 meals today that included baguettes