An incredible day with a small climb to the summit and then all the way back down to civilisation!

Starting bright and early – dark and early? – just before sunrise, we made it up towards the summit as the sunlight poured across a low bank of clouds and covered the plains far below. In the golden dawn we reached the Cruz de Ferro / Iron Cross, a famous landmark on Camino. The tradition is to carry a rock from home, or along your journey, and leave it among the enormous pile of stones around the base of the cross.

Tradition followed, we continued along a summit plateau and eventually up to the highest point of the Camino Francés

From here it was down – down – down again – and then more down. Across a changing landscape, as the sun rose higher in the sky and we descended thru a variety of landscapes and some absolutely beautiful villages.

Acebo was an incredibly welcome sight, as the first hot drink of the day about 10km in and halfway down the mountainside. Brighter light and fuller colours on the trees and flowers as the path continued on down, thru charming Riego de Ambrás and upon leaving dipping into a nearly lush streamside walk.

Deeper valleys opening up to the side of our trail, views across to distant roads and the sound of rivers and waterfalls. Eventually coming down into the truly delightful village of Molinaseca, reaching the end of the descent for the day and a great justification for a second hot coffee.

From there, a trivial and flattish 8km stroll into the small city of Pontferrada and another municipal albergue, decent enough and – as always – staffed by dedicated and friendly hospitaleros. A quick trip to town and its excellent castle, cheap dinner at an Italian pizzeria, then back to the albergue for a solid night’s sleep.

Stats for today:

• 24.9km
• 285m ascent
• 1,198m descent
• That’s over a kilometre of descent, just to emphasise